A Recipe For — Elderflower Holunderküchle
by Zsuzsanna Toth
In a time and place where cravings can be answered at almost any hour—regardless of season, place, or origin—convenience has replaced wonder.
We eat with ease, but often at the expense of intimacy with the land and its rhythms. The natural cycle of ripening and resting, of fleeting abundance, is easy to forget. But food also holds the power to do the opposite. It can be a lens through which we broaden our understanding, focus on seasons (until we have them), and narrow down our options — to discover incredibly simple and delicious treats right in front of us, with little effort, skills or time needed.
A great example is a traditional rural South German and Austrian dessert called Holunderküchle (also known as Hollerküchel, Holunderpfannkuchen, Holderle, or Hollerschöberl): a sweet elderflower tempura, served simply and emphasising the natural shape and distinct flavour of the swiftly blossoming flowerheads. The elderflower season is short and oh-so-sweet. The flowering of these trees brings not just scent and flavour — ready to be infused into a multitude of desserts and preserves — but also a softly screaming anticipation of the brightest season ahead. This treat is meant to be enjoyed immediately, (guilt-free) and indulgently.
Ingredients
— Freshly picked elderflower heads, with stems (and leaves, if you like the look), approx. 3–4 heads per person
— 250 g flour (a mix of plain and whole wheat flour works well)
— 2 eggs
— Pinch of salt
— 1 tbsp sugar
— 250 ml milk
— Neutral frying oil (e.g. sunflower or canola)
— Icing sugar (for dusting)
Instructions
1. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, salt, flour, and milk to make a smooth batter. Optional: For a lighter, airier texture, separate the eggs and whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Gently fold them into the batter at the end.
2. Heat the frying oil in a deep pot to around 180°C (350°F).
3. Dip each elderflower head into the batter, pressing it down to fully coat and slightly spread the flower head.
4. Carefully hold the coated flower head in the hot oil (stem up) and fry until golden brown—about 3 minutes.
5. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain excess oil on kitchen paper, and dust with icing sugar.
6. Enjoy warm—plain, with vanilla ice cream, or dipped in cold custard. It makes a perfect dessert or an afternoon treat for friends, kids, or yourself.
Zsuzsanna Toth is Patter’s food editor. She is a chef and writer based in Berlin. @zsubidu